Rabbit Care News

Many people are discovering the joys of sharing their homes with one or more companion rabbits. Rabbits are intelligent and playful, can be easily litter-trained, and make wonderful housepets. When you understand rabbit behavior, proper veterinary care, how to create the proper environment for your pet, and how to bunny-proof your home, your pet rabbit will provide years of love and companionship for you and your family.

However, there are many common myths about rabbits that need to be dispelled:

Myth: Rabbits are good starter pets for children. Rabbits are delicate, ground-loving creatures. Most rabbits do not like to be held or handled, and may try to escape a well-meaning child's arms by biting and scratching. In addition, a rabbit's back may be easily broken as a result of improper handling.

Myth: Rabbits are boring. Simply placing a rabbit in an outdoor hutch with minimal interaction from you and your family does result in a boring (and bored) pet. However, with regular interaction from you and plenty of running space for a bunny to kick up his heels and play, a rabbit suddenly becomes a social,1 fun-loving addition to a household. All the rabbit needs is the opportunity to show his true colors to you.

Myth: Rabbits are low maintenance pets. Rabbits have needs similar to those of other household pets. A sick bunny needs medical care from a qualified veterinarian. Rabbits have specific dietary needs. A chronically ill rabbit will require long-term care. In addition, for medical and behavioral reasons rabbits need to be spayed and neutered. Cages and litterboxes need frequent cleaning. A properly cared for rabbit can live 8 to 10 years, sometimes even longer. This is quite a long-term commitment for a rabbit owner.

A bunny owner needs patience, creativity to block or hide things a rabbit might want to chew (such as electrical cords), and a willingness to get down on the floor to interact with a bunny on her own level. For people willing to make this commitment to a house rabbit, the reward is years of companionship with a surprisingly clever, loving, and intelligent creature.

Most rabbits have some sort of cage they can call their own. Even rabbits who have 24 hour free range of a house enjoy a place to go to nap, hide, or nibble hay. The rabbit's cage should be a pleasant place to spend time, and the bigger, the better.

The Cage

Rabbits have been referred to as "life-support systems for teeth that chew."* They have an amazing ability to chew, rip, shred, tear, and otherwise destroy anything they come across. A rabbit's teeth grow continuously, and chewing helps to wear down teeth to a healthy level. By providing acceptable chewing alternatives and making some adjustments to the area the bunny occupies, you can minimize the destruction to your home and property.

While some rabbits are allowed run of an entire house, others have their areas restricted to certain rooms. For example, a computer with all its cords and cables is difficult to rabbit-proof, and it is often easier to simply restrict access to that room. A strong baby gate that is too tall for a bunny to jump is a good investment.

The number one household hazard to rabbits is electrical and telephone cords. Cords seem to draw rabbits like a magnet, and sharp bunny teeth can sever a cord in seconds. Not only can the resulting electrical shock injure or kill your rabbit, the bare wire can be a risky fire hazard. Cords can be hidden behind bookcases and other furniture that the rabbit can not get behind. Another solution is to encase the wire in something that the bunny can not bite through. Plastic cable covers can be purchased at electronics or automotive stores. You can also purchase plastic tubing or a garden hose, slit it lengthwise, and insert the wire inside.

Carpet is also irresistible temptation to many rabbits. A bunny may dig or chew at carpet fibers, which can lead to an intestinal blockage if ingested. If there are only a few spots (usually corners) where she likes to dig, grass mats can be used to hide the area and provide a great chewing and digging diversion. A large tub of hay or straw also serves as a good digging outlet. A wide variety of untreated willow baskets, wood blocks, and chewable cardboard gives a bunny plenty of opportunity to chew.

Rabbits who chew the household despite these alternatives may need to be further deterred. A water pistol is a cheap, safe way to let your rabbit know what she is doing is wrong. Also, bitter tasting substances can be bought in pet supply stores and applied to carpet, table legs, curtains, or whatever she likes to chew. When she begins to make the association that chewing the furniture results in something unpleasant, she will be less likely to destroy your property and seek out acceptable chewing and digging pastimes.

Another hazard is household plants. Many of these are toxic to rabbits and can cause serious illness or death when eaten. Plants should be out of reach.

Other cover-ups, diversions, and measures can be taken as needed to make your home rabbit-friendly. Expensive hard-cover books can be moved to a higher bookshelf, shoes and clothes should be put away, and important bills and documents should not be left on the floor, or you can be assured your bunny will find these things and work her destructive magic on them.

Many people are surprised to find that rabbits can be litter-trained. It takes patience, time, and a lot of litter-boxes (at first), but the result is a companion that can be trusted in the main living areas of your home.

Spaying or neutering your rabbit is the first step. Unaltered rabbits are highly territorial and will frequently spray large amounts of urine to mark their territory, especially during adolescence. Spaying and neutering decreases this urge to spray and improves litter habits greatly.

Rabbits vary in how quickly they learn to use a litterbox. Young rabbits are often hyper and too busy exploring to remember to return to a litterbox, and can be more difficult to train. A rabbit with a well established spraying habit may continue to spray, especially in the presence of another rabbit.

The Setup and Training

The number one most important thing to feed your rabbit is grass hay. Unlimited amounts of timothy, oat, or orchard hay should be supplied 24 hours a day. Legume hays such as alfalfa and clover hay contain large amounts of calcium and protein which can cause health problems when fed in excess to rabbits over 6 months of age, and should only be used as treats. Feeding hay provides large quantities of fiber without unneeded calories, and helps to prevent intestinal problems such as trichobezoars (hairballs) and stasis (slowdown or complete stoppage of the intestinal system).

Pellets should be offered in limited amounts to rabbits over 6 months. Pellets should be of high quality with high fiber (> 18 %), low fat (1 - 2 %), low calcium, and low protein. Do not feed pellets with nuts, seeds, dried vegetables or other "treats" in them! These pellets are low in quality and very high in fat. Plain, high quality pellets are the best thing for your rabbit.

Vegetables should also make up a large amount of your rabbit's diet. Try to introduce at least eight different types of vegetables, and of these, at least three should be fed daily. Leafy greens such as romaine, dandelion greens, endive, parsley, cilantro, basil, peppermint leaves, carrot tops, beet tops, radish tops, collard greens, and escarole are good, as well as vegetables such as carrots, celery, and broccoli. Kale and spinach can be fed in limited amounts. Generally, one heaping cup of vegetables per five pounds of body weight can be fed per day. Introduce new vegetables gradually, one at a time. If any diarrhea or intestinal upset is noticed, discontinue that vegetable. If after a week your rabbit has no problems, introduce another vegetable. Be sure to wash all vegetables thoroughly.

Treats such as apple, pear, raisins, melon, papaya, or banana can also be fed (about a tablespoon a day). Grains such as rolled oats or barley can also be fed in small amounts.

Fresh water should always be available to your rabbit. This can be provided in a tip-proof ceramic dish (lead free only) or in a hanging water bottle. Change the water at least once daily and clean crocks and bottles often with a mild dish detergent.

Other items you may want to consider feeding your rabbit include papaya enzyme (papayin) and acidophillus/lactobacillus. Papaya enzymes help promote motility of the intestinal tract. Fresh papaya or dextrose free papaya tablets can be fed. Acidophillus/lactobacillus are thought to help maintain a good balance of microorganisms in the intestinal tract.

Up From Ground Zero

Rabbits need to be handled very carefully. Most rabbits generally do not like to be lifted from the ground, and may struggle. They also have an exceptionally delicate skeletal structure and can be injured very easily if improperly handled or dropped.

A rabbit should never be picked up by her ears: she is not designed to support the weight of her body and picking her up like this hurts terribly and can cause damage. In addition, rabbits should not be lifted by the scruff of the neck. If the rear legs are not supported, she will struggle, kick out and most likely hurt her back. If you must pick up your rabbit by the scruff, be sure to quickly put a hand on her rump to keep her from struggling.

The best way to pick up a rabbit is to slide one hand underneath her chest, place the other hand firmly on the rump, and scoop toward your body. Hold the rabbit close to you in a firm grasp. Some rabbits may struggle even when they're secure against a body. If your bunny does this, it sometimes helps to cover her eyes with your hand. Be prepared to squat quickly should she struggle violently or start to escape from your arms.

To put your rabbit back down on the floor, do a deep knee bend to get yourself as low as possible without tipping or tilting the bunny. Gently release her to the floor.

Good Bunny Hygiene

Like cats, most rabbits do a pretty good job of keeping themselves looking their best. However, there are still some things that you will need to look after to keep your bunny well-groomed and healthy.

Long-haired rabbits such as angoras, fuzzy lops, and Jersey woolies need vigilant, daily brushing to keep mats and tangles from forming. Once these mats form, the only way to remove them is to gently cut them out. It can literally take hours to get mats out once they form, and regular brushing prevents this. A wire slicker brush commonly sold for cats easily removes large amounts of loose hair and wool. A wide-toothed pet comb can get out the occasional minor snarl.

Short-haired rabbits will need to be brushed as well, but not as frequently. Rabbits shed four times a year, with two of these shedding periods being major molts. Since ingesting loose hair can easily lead to dangerous hairballs, it is a wise idea to brush your rabbit frequently while she is shedding heavily.

Rabbits' toenails need periodic clipping to keep from growing too long and causing foot problems such as sore hocks. This can be done by your vet, or you can do it yourself with a little practice. Many rabbits can be "tranced" by gently placing them on their backs in your lap and stroking the top of the head. Once the bunny is quiet and still, you may be able to clip her nails. Be ready for the bunny to suddenly snap out of the trance! Always have a firm grasp to be sure she doesn't hurt herself!

If your rabbit has light-colored toenails, you will be able to see a vein inside. This is the quick. (If your rabbit has dark nails, you will need to backlight the nails with a flashlight to see this.) Using cat nail clippers or regular human toenail clippers, clip the toenail just below the quick (see illustration). If by mistake you cut through the quick it will bleed, often quite heavily. This can be stopped with styptic powder, corn starch, or regular flower. Keep an eye on that toe for a few days to be sure it does not become infected.

If you are interested in adopting a rabbit, contact your local animal shelter or House Rabbit Society representative. Please do not purchase a rabbit from a pet store or breeder while there are so many rabbits waiting in crowded shelters and foster homes.

The Southern Tier Rabbit Care Network can also assist in locating a rabbit that needs a second chance. This is done by:
close ties to the New York House Rabbit Society.
keeping a list of individuals looking to find homes for their unwanted rabbits in the Binghamton, NY area.
keeping in contact with several area shelters who accept rabbits.
keeping in touch with rabbit owners around the world via the internet. There are frequent posts regarding rabbits desperately in need of safe, loving homes.